Thanks go to Darren Peters for this information.
The tips below are in response to the following queries:
"I have just purchased a partially built 4.9 from a young guy unable to find the time to complete it. The hulls are completed minus the beam pads centerboard cases, hardware and decks.
I would be interested in how you have incorporated the trampoline tracks and side chainplates or even if I can do these modifications at this point of construction.
What are your thoughts regarding installation of fibreglass centreboard cases versus ply construction?
Would you be also able to comment from your experience on the performance?
I am looking forward to bringing this boat to life and would appreciate any tips you might have to help me build the best boat I can."
It's a pretty big commitment building a 4.9, particularly a good one. Hopefully the information below will be helpful.
The side chainplates are made by slapping a piece of 4mm ply either side of the chainplate and then drilling through the lot and placing a countersunk bolt and a nut on the inside of the plate. The lot is then glued in at the approp. point. I did this after I cut the deckhatch when the decks were on. Hope it makes sense.
As for incorporating trampoline tracks this was done by placing an extra piece of WRCedar below the original and then routing out the top piece and gluing the caravan annexe track into it once I had ground the tracks with an angle grinder to ensure adhesion.
I actually made my own cases as Jim Boyer wanted about $80 a case(5yrs ago) and it was too easy a job to do. All I did was get some melamime?, brown stuff used for pinup boards and placed a piece of mdf inbetween. I then shaped some wrc timber at either end and sealed that, waxed the sides with mould release wax(not the shaped timber), and started to glass away. I made it long enough to protrude beyond my requirements and screwed it all together before applying 3 layers of 2.5 oz glass. When it set I unscrewed the lot and punched the middle piece of mdf out, making sure that one end was slightly longer than the other(only 5mm) to make the disassembly easier. To get the side bits of melamine off I just hit it with warm water and they fell off. Hey presto, a pair of centrecases for about $20. We built three pairs so the economies of scale worked for us, you may find it easier to purchase from boyer. Ours are still going five years later and not leaking. I'd suggest reinforcing them once they're in so that they don't waver like unsupported thin glass tends to.
The boyer foils these days are pretty good, particularly the new a-class style setups. If I was building again this is what I'd buy- faster!!!! More expensive yes. Timber foils are fine, but just make sure that you do a top job on making them or they'll break on you. I had a failure due to a bad batch of resin. I repaired them and they're fine now. They're a better shape than the standard foil and don't stall as much. They need repainting.
My only suggestion is to be really careful not to add too much weight and you should come out fine. I hope the guy who built your boat made sure it was all straight, particularly the bow. Additionally, it may be worth your while checking that the hull measurements underneath are going to fit properly as some have had trouble. It may be worthwhile contacting the vic. assoc. and checking out if it'll measure.